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My Top 3 |
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by David Trumble
I cant stand it anymore. These tensions are all screwed up.
Sewing machine tension problems rank within the top three user complaints. It does not matter whether the machine itself is a cheap dime store machine or if it is an elegant high quality machine. When the sewing machine tensions are mess up, it can be extremely aggravating. Excess threads may bubble up on top of the fabric, or it may bunch up hidden underneath. In either case, learning to adjust the tensions properly is essential.
The problems with sewing machine tensions may result from many different things. Threading is often a problem. You may have threaded your sewing machine a thousand times, but if the thread rides along the ridge of the tension discs, you get problems. Dirt, grit, gunk, and lint can cause the system to mess up. Rough spots, irregular surfaces, burrs, and rust can ruin tensions. Loosely wound bobbins, bad thread, dull needles, and of course mechanical failures can produce tension problems.
When the tensions are properly set, the top and bottom threads link inside the fabric. The stitching should flow evenly, tightly, consistently over the length and breadth of the seam. There should be no puckers, bubbles, or gobs of thread bunching up underneath or showing on top. There should be no excess thread top or bottom.
To achieve these perfect stitches the upper and lower threading must be just right. The drag or resistance of the upper tension system and the bobbin tension system must balance each other precisely.
Imagine the fabric is a stream of water. The threads are like ropes across the stream. One tug of war team pulls up and another pulls down. Each team pulls across the stream. If the lower team or bobbin team pulls harder than the upper tension team, excess thread will collect under the fabric out of sight until you lift the fabric to see ugly bunches of thread. It may even look fine on top while the threads jam up underneath. If the upper team pulls harder than the lower team, excess threads pop up on top of the fabric. Usually, you will see bubbles, balls, or bunches of thread almost as soon as they stitch.
Adjusting the tensions on your sewing machine is usually quite easy once you understand what your tension system is suppose to do. Your goal is to modify the drag on the thread until the resistance is equalized top to bottom ” bottom to top.
The first thing you should do when you see messed up tensions, is to rethread the upper thread. Are you using a spool cap? Check for any rough spots that might snag the thread. Check for any debris or lint in the tension discs. Before threading the tension mechanism, lift the presser foot. Make sure everything is right. When you reach the needle, tug on the thread. It should draw smoothly with very little resistance. Put the presser foot down and pull again. Now there should be significant resistance.
Take your bobbin out. Is the thread wound evenly? It should be. Place it back in its carrier. Check the tension spring for any debris or lint that may have collected under it and clean it out. Slide the thread under the tension spring. Test it to make sure there is moderate resistance on the thread. This usually does not require adjustment unless you change the size of thread significantly. Some suggest that a professional sewing machine repair person make these adjustments when needed.
Next, adjust the upper tension to equalize the lower tension. You may need to rely on some trial and error until you get it just right. Ignore the numbers on the tension dial, unless they are really low or really high. In this case you may need to disassemble the tension assembly to make the repair, or have a technician to do.
Always do a test seam on scrap materials before sewing a finished seam that will be seen. Adjust the tension on the stitch you plan to use until it is properly balanced. Note a straight stitch may appear balanced, but when you go to a zig zag or other stitch, it may not produce your perfect stitch. Always test before sewing your finished seam.
Sometimes things just do not work perfectly. The thread, the needle, the fabric, and the machine can all contribute to small challenges. Some of these issues can be resolved by using better thread, replacing the needle, using the right needle, or using better fabric. If you have good tension with straight stitches, but one side of the zig zag is still not just right. Minimize the flaws by setting tensions to keep the flaw on the underside instead of the facing side of the fabric. Narrowing and shortening the zig zag stitch can also help.
When you understand how your sewing machine tensions work, you can adjust them with confidence. In those rare instances where your best efforts fail, you can always rely on your local sewing machine repair technician.
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